Well folks, it is
official, June is Ohio Wine Month. Oh, what a joy it was to hear myself say
that. I am not kidding…
Just so you know,
Ohio used to be the number one producer of wine in the United States. Of
course, that was when Ohio was the west and nobody had traveled past the
Mississippi.
Therefore, with deep
thought and much deliberation I decided to pick two Ohio wines for our club
this month. My method for picking these wines was simply the same as always, to
find wines that were of tremendous quality, wines that represented their terrior
accurately, and wines priced just right. This was so much fun I could hardly
restrain myself. I am sure you are getting as excited as I am, so let us get on
with it…
The
history of wine making in Ohio can be traced back to the early 1800's. Nicholas
Longworth, a lawyer from the Cincinnati area, saw the potential of the Ohio
River Valley to become a major producer of wine. In 1820 he planted the first
Catawba grapes. This domestic variety was hearty enough to withstand Ohio
winters and the wine produced from it won quick consumer acceptance. The light,
semi-sweet wine was different from the other strong American wines of the day.
Soon there were many acres of vines growing in the greater Cincinnati area and
by 1845 the annual production was over 300,000 gallons. By 1860, Ohio led the
nation in the production of wine. As crop diseases, such as black rot and
mildew, began to plague the grapes, the Civil war left the grape growers with
little manpower. This led to the demise of wine making in southern Ohio.
As the
southern vineyards wilted, a new Ohio growing area emerged in the Lake Erie
Islands. The islands had a unique climate; the waters surrounding them provided
a long growing season and insulated the vines from spreading disease. German
immigrants who brought the traditions of wine making with them settled the
islands. By the turn of the century, thousands of gallons of wine were being
produced by dozens of wineries on and near the islands. Vineyards were soon
planted along the entire southern shore of Lake Erie. This narrow strip of
shoreline soon became nicknamed the "Lake Erie Grape Belt."
Then
Prohibition struck the United States and brought disaster to the Ohio wine
making traditions. Some family businesses turned to making wine for sacramental
purposes, others produced juice, and still the majority of land was turned into
industrial land and housing developments. The general grape-oriented economy of
the area collapsed.
When
prohibition was repealed in 1933, a few wineries reemerged, but they had a lot
against them: the majority of vineyards were in a state of disrepair,
government restrictions hindered their wine making traditions, and the few
lasting vines had been converted to produce juice grapes. Ohio's one time
status as the top wine producer was gone, and with it a long road to recovery.
The
turning point for the Ohio Wine industry came in the early 1960's with the
planting of French-American varieties in southern Ohio, encouraged largely by
The Ohio State University's Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center
in Wooster. The hardy, disease-resistant grapes produced wines similar to the
older European vinifera varieties. Their success in the south encouraged
plantings in the Lake Erie Grape Belt. Since 1965, more than 40 new wineries
have been established across the state and each spring wine makers continue to
plant French-American Hybrids and vinifera varieties.
In
1975, a group of innovative wine makers formed the Ohio Wine Producers
Association. Their purpose was and still is to bring together the grape growers
and the wine makers. Through the efforts of the O\VPA, individual members stay
better informed on governmental action, technical advances, and research and
development programs affecting the grape/wine industry.
The
Ohio General Assembly and Governors, James Rhodes and Richard Celeste
established another vital program in 1981. In cooperation with wine makers and
grape growers, the Ohio Grape Industries Program was created and charged with
the development of marketing and research programs to encourage the continuing
revitalization of the fresh grape and grape wine industries.
In
the decade of the nineties, one of the significant threats facing the industry
was a lack of quality Ohio grown wine grapes. A major effort to increase
acreage was initiated under the leadership of Governor George Voinovich. Tax
credits, vineyard planting grants, arid the hiring of a state extension
viticulturist are having a positive impact on the total number of wine grape
acres being planted.
The
results can be seen through the continued success of Ohio wines in national
competitions. In the early 1990, an Ohio Riesling won Best of Show at the
prestigious Sari Francisco State Fair Wine Competition. That award was a
tremendous boost for the Ohio Wine Industry', and a new era of respect emerged.
Other gold medals in Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles, and across the nation have
reinforced Ohio's position as one of the major wine regions of the world.
Our
wine picks this month come from Halliday Wines. Halliday’s Winery is named
after Jesse Halliday, Milton Township’s first entrepreneur. Jesse built a grist
mill less than a half mile from the Lake Milton Dam. Our Winery is a tribute to
Jesse and the wonderful history of the Mahoning River Valley and the Lake
Milton area.
So, with all that said, I have chosen
Halliday’s Jacob’s choice for our white wine. Made from slow
ripening grapes, primarily Pinot Gris, creating complex aromas of vanilla,
apples, lime zest, hazelnuts and a hint of floral, rich body, crispy
brightness, spice and fruit flavors enhanced by partial barrel fermentation.
This is a great summer sipper. We recommend consuming this wine chilled
slightly and may be served with cold appetizers. Our red wine is Jesse’s Red.
This is a bold, head turning wine with cabernet notes, a hint of black cherry
and cocoa, balanced with oak and acidity. Jesse’s Red finishes with rich and
robust flavors. This wine is great served at your favorite barbeque or drink
while hanging out with friends and family.
As
President Washington said, “I cannot tell a lie,” and so we cannot either.
These wines are made for Halliday Wines by the Debevc Family from the Grand
River Valley, Ohio.
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