Friday, April 6, 2012

I had a Dream...


I had a Dream…

That someday all wines would be judged equally…

That all wines would be graded upon their quality instead of their label or cost…

That each wine would be tasted with enthusiasm and an open mind…

I had a Dream…

We could all gather and appreciate the natural healing power that the grape brings to all of us…

That food and wine would pair perfectly without overpowering each other…

I had a Dream that everyone would like both red and white wines evenly…

Without prejudice or discrimination.



As spring unveils itself and brings forth life. We too should open our minds to all the preconceptions of wine and start a new appreciation for the world of Oenology. My goal this year is to gain a respect for white and red wines alike. I hope all of us will learn and grow our respect for the farmer, vintner, and wine itself. This can only be done by directly comparing what a grape has to offer, no matter where it is grown or who makes the finished product. We will grow to understand each terroir and appreciate each wine for where it comes from.

This month we are comparing a Chardonnay from the Burgundy region of France and a Chardonnay from the Colchagua Valley in Chile. Both Chardonnays are of equal quality but different in so many ways. They come from two different sides of the equator. One vineyard will be experiencing summer while the other is chilled with the blanket of winter. What they do have in common is enthusiastic men and women who want nothing more than to make a perfect wine with the tools they have been handed.



First, we will look at the Burgundian Chardonnay. France is without a doubt the most difficult wine region in the world to understand. Therefore, I will try to explain it simply without too much detail. In France, nearly all wines are labeled with their origin instead of the grape variety. The basic wine areas in France are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire Valley, Rhone, Provence, Champagne, Alsace and a couple more with which we will not bother. Burgundy, which is where our wine is from, is broken down into three basic regions: Chablis, Côte d’Or, Mâconnais. Within each region is an intricate map of sub-region, then Villages, and vineyards, all of which are shared by many more farmers than there are vintners. Our wine is from the village of Saint Véran located in the Mâconnais. The nearest village of great distinction is that of Pouilly-Fuissé. All white wine made within the Mâconnais is 100% Chardonnay and with good reason. The characteristics held by the terroir here are a perfect match for the queen of grape varieties. Limestone subsoil, layered with clay and gravel, along with a warm climate suit the Chardonnay grape. What determines the distinction between one Village’s wines to the next are the undulating differences in the soil. Saint-Véran is distinct due to its red chalky soil and the gravel turning into sand, which brings an acidity and minerality to the wine that, is not found in some of the neighboring villages. The southeast facing vineyards, which rise a mere 300-500 feet, appreciate the sunshine that caresses its fruit. This wine sees no oak during the winemaking process. Our wine is fruity with aromas and flavors of white peach, pear, granny smith apple, a flinty minerality and a bit of honeyed-petrol. Food pairings for our Saint-Véran are monkfish, lightly seasoned chicken with a cream sauce, prawns and goat cheese.

Now, we will jump 8400 nautical miles over the Atlantic Ocean, the Equator, and the whole continent of South America to the vineyards of Chile. The most dynamic thing about Chilean wine country is the fact it is the only region in the world that has never been invaded by the destructive aphid Phylloxera. This is due to the sandy Atacama Desert to the north, the Andes Mountains to the east, the Pacific Ocean to the west and Antarctica to the south. The climate is generally Mediterranean with day after day of warm sunshine, little rainfall and an unpolluted atmosphere. The soils here are different from those of Burgundy. Chile has fine textured clay, loam silt, and granite derived from volcanic slopes.



The low humidity, maritime influence and the cooling breeze from the Andes Mountain range generate an ideal condition for grape growing. Temperatures fluctuate as much as 40°F from mid-day to mid-night in the Colchagua Valley, giving the grapes additional hang time and a long molecular chain responsible for the aromas and taste of the fruit. It is here where the vineyards range from 1500-3000 feet in altitude. MontGras is at the top of their class when it comes to environmental responsibility; they know the unique geographical situation they are a part of and they take their farming and winemaking technique seriously, while maintaining the natural surroundings. All these dynamics, combined with skillful winemaking make our MontGras Chardonnay unique. This white wine is aged for six months, 40% in oak and the remainder in stainless steel. Tropical fruit aromas, and flavors of apricots and honey combined with vanilla, peach and pear flavors, invite foods such as Hawaiian pork kabobs, grilled jerk chicken, and Alaskan Salmon with mango chutney.

Enjoy!