Table & Goblet Newsletter August 3, 2012

Carneros Creek Winery

Before Pinot Noir became the Box Office hit, this tough to grow grape was receiving steadfast attention from Francis Mahoney.

Armed with the enthusiasm of a 25-year-old and confidence in California’s potential to make world-class wines, Francis Mahoney set out in 1971 with bride, Kathy, to grow Pinot Noir and make wines that would rival red Burgundies. Undaunted by Pinot Noir’s reputation as a difficult grape to grow and vinify, Francis accepted the challenge.

Francis researched the elements linked with great French Pinot Noirs, noting that the Burgundians were captivated by the concept of terrior, the combined influence of climate and place on a wine. Francis found an area similar to Burgundy in Los Carneros, the appellation that lies across the southernmost portions of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Often obscured by fog and swept by breezes from San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean, Carneros offered cool year-round temperatures ideal for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Francis planted Pinot Noir and began 30 years of clonal trials to better understand some of the hundreds of clonal variations of the variety. In 1972, he built a small, functional winery and set about using his best tool, a palate honed in the cellars of Burgundy during his tenure as a wine importer, at Connoisseur Wine Imports in San Francisco.

When the Mahoneys purchased their land in Carneros, which means ram in Spanish, the land was mainly comprised with orchards and sheep herds. Under his direction, Carneros Creek and the U.C. Davis school of Enology and Viticulture conducted the first research focused on improving California Pinot Noir clones in separate small lots and then blending these clonal selections in different ways, he could create several styles of Pinot Noir all of which were stylistically unique representatives of the varietal. With over 160 acres planted to this one variety, the next step was to build a state-of–the-art winery to bring out the best from each clone. The combination of the most modern technology and viticultural research along with a reverence for Old World methods insures the success of Carneros Creek as a leading producer of New World Pinot Noir.

      Over the next 10 years, Francis became the leader in Pinot Noir development in the area and soon Los Carneros earned the status of AVA, American Viticultural Area. Carneros Creek gained a reputation of possessing wines that rivaled the greatest wineries in France. Mr. Mahoney continued to purchase lands and plant vineyards with clonal varieties that were well suited for the region.

In 1998, investors helped turn Carneros Creek Winery into a destination spot and expanded the facility. Francis found himself becoming more of a winemaker and was losing focus on what got him to where he was and that was farming. Ken Foster was hired as winemaker and Francis continued to work the vineyards and do clonal research along with Ken.

At this time, Michael Mondavi was looking for an actual winery to produce his brands of wine: I’m, Oberon, and Hangtime, which were all being made at other facilities. Therefore, in 2004, Mondavi purchased the Carneros Creek brand and some of the acreage surrounding the winery.

To this day Francis continues to farm the lands around the winery, which he still owns, and uses the winery to make his own wines under the Mahoney Vineyards label.

The two wines we are tasting this month are from the Fleur de California portfolio. Although Francis Mahoney does not own the wines, he has a history and involvement with the wines that put them in a class of their own. Ken Foster is the winemaker for both wines and he carries the flag for Mahoney while using the fruit developed in the Carneros AVA.

The Pinot Noir Rose is made in a crisp, dry style that is designed to accompany food. The Fleur Rose combines the typical Carneros Pinot Noir floral and fruit aromas with a mouthful of fresh strawberry and honeysuckle. The wine has a fresh mouth-watering finish that cleanses the palate. This delightful wine reminds us that even though the wine is light in color, it can retain all the character and beauty of its varietal. Pair this wine with seafood, salads, cheeses, white-sauced pastas, and your favorite light-medium fare.

      Our Petite Sirah is fabricated from an extremely low yielding vintage, making this wine highly concentrated with flavor. This wine is dense with intense aromas of blueberries, peppercorn and nutmeg. Dark in color, once in the mouth, it explodes in flavors of blackberries, vanilla, spice and a hint of black pepper. This is a nice quaffing wine that finishes smooth yet bright and is best served with barbecued pork ribs, teriyaki beef dishes or any type of wild game.

2011 Fleur de California

Pinot Noir Rose

North Coast, California

Alcohol: 13.05%

Harvest date: Sept. 15- 17, 2010

No barrel aging

Cold fermentation 55-60⁰ F

Suggested retail: $15.99 750ml

Club price: $14.99 750ml

2008 Fleur de California

Petite Sirah

North Coast, California

Alcohol: 13.8%

Harvest date: Sept. 30 – Oct. 18, 2008

12 months French Oak barrel aging

Fermentation at 80-90⁰ F

Suggested retail: $15.99 750ml

Club price: $14.99 750ml

I'd rather be in Love

What is Love?

If everyone wants love,

Why is it so hard to find?

It could be right in front of you,

And it goes by without notice.

Love is free for the taking,

And costly when abused.

Love comes in many ways,

It could be affection, a feeling, or praise.

Love can be lasting or short lived.

It may be the only way one may feel free.

Would you rather feel love than pain?

You can love your parents,

Or feel the love for a child.

A love for the one you’re with,

Is like a like a breath of fresh air,

You just have to remember to keep breathing.

Love is a sunny day and birds singing.

 It is gift we all can share but are afraid to pass on.

Love is seeing another person’s soul,

And knowing you are exposed.

Can you see love staring at you?

Love is honest and forgiving.

It is a beauty you cannot see with your eyes.

Love is passion and will,

It is a riddle with no answer.

Are you in love?

By Bryan Bennington

June is Ohio Wine Month

      Well folks, it is official, June is Ohio Wine Month. Oh, what a joy it was to hear myself say that. I am not kidding…

Just so you know, Ohio used to be the number one producer of wine in the United States. Of course, that was when Ohio was the west and nobody had traveled past the Mississippi.

Therefore, with deep thought and much deliberation I decided to pick two Ohio wines for our club this month. My method for picking these wines was simply the same as always, to find wines that were of tremendous quality, wines that represented their terrior accurately, and wines priced just right. This was so much fun I could hardly restrain myself. I am sure you are getting as excited as I am, so let us get on with it…

The history of wine making in Ohio can be traced back to the early 1800's. Nicholas Longworth, a lawyer from the Cincinnati area, saw the potential of the Ohio River Valley to become a major producer of wine. In 1820 he planted the first Catawba grapes. This domestic variety was hearty enough to withstand Ohio winters and the wine produced from it won quick consumer acceptance. The light, semi-sweet wine was different from the other strong American wines of the day. Soon there were many acres of vines growing in the greater Cincinnati area and by 1845 the annual production was over 300,000 gallons. By 1860, Ohio led the nation in the production of wine. As crop diseases, such as black rot and mildew, began to plague the grapes, the Civil war left the grape growers with little manpower. This led to the demise of wine making in southern Ohio.

      As the southern vineyards wilted, a new Ohio growing area emerged in the Lake Erie Islands. The islands had a unique climate; the waters surrounding them provided a long growing season and insulated the vines from spreading disease. German immigrants who brought the traditions of wine making with them settled the islands. By the turn of the century, thousands of gallons of wine were being produced by dozens of wineries on and near the islands. Vineyards were soon planted along the entire southern shore of Lake Erie. This narrow strip of shoreline soon became nicknamed the "Lake Erie Grape Belt."

     Then Prohibition struck the United States and brought disaster to the Ohio wine making traditions. Some family businesses turned to making wine for sacramental purposes, others produced juice, and still the majority of land was turned into industrial land and housing developments. The general grape-oriented economy of the area collapsed.

When prohibition was repealed in 1933, a few wineries reemerged, but they had a lot against them: the majority of vineyards were in a state of disrepair, government restrictions hindered their wine making traditions, and the few lasting vines had been converted to produce juice grapes. Ohio's one time status as the top wine producer was gone, and with it a long road to recovery.

The turning point for the Ohio Wine industry came in the early 1960's with the planting of French-American varieties in southern Ohio, encouraged largely by The Ohio State University's Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center in Wooster. The hardy, disease-resistant grapes produced wines similar to the older European vinifera varieties. Their success in the south encouraged plantings in the Lake Erie Grape Belt. Since 1965, more than 40 new wineries have been established across the state and each spring wine makers continue to plant French-American Hybrids and vinifera varieties.

In 1975, a group of innovative wine makers formed the Ohio Wine Producers Association. Their purpose was and still is to bring together the grape growers and the wine makers. Through the efforts of the O\VPA, individual members stay better informed on governmental action, technical advances, and research and development programs affecting the grape/wine industry.

 The Ohio General Assembly and Governors, James Rhodes and Richard Celeste established another vital program in 1981. In cooperation with wine makers and grape growers, the Ohio Grape Industries Program was created and charged with the development of marketing and research programs to encourage the continuing revitalization of the fresh grape and grape wine industries.

In the decade of the nineties, one of the significant threats facing the industry was a lack of quality Ohio grown wine grapes. A major effort to increase acreage was initiated under the leadership of Governor George Voinovich. Tax credits, vineyard planting grants, arid the hiring of a state extension viticulturist are having a positive impact on the total number of wine grape acres being planted.

The results can be seen through the continued success of Ohio wines in national competitions. In the early 1990, an Ohio Riesling won Best of Show at the prestigious Sari Francisco State Fair Wine Competition. That award was a tremendous boost for the Ohio Wine Industry', and a new era of respect emerged. Other gold medals in Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles, and across the nation have reinforced Ohio's position as one of the major wine regions of the world.

Our wine picks this month come from Halliday Wines. Halliday’s Winery is named after Jesse Halliday, Milton Township’s first entrepreneur. Jesse built a grist mill less than a half mile from the Lake Milton Dam. Our Winery is a tribute to Jesse and the wonderful history of the Mahoning River Valley and the Lake Milton area.

So, with all that said, I have chosen Halliday’s Jacob’s choice for our white wine. Made from slow ripening grapes, primarily Pinot Gris, creating complex aromas of vanilla, apples, lime zest, hazelnuts and a hint of floral, rich body, crispy brightness, spice and fruit flavors enhanced by partial barrel fermentation. This is a great summer sipper. We recommend consuming this wine chilled slightly and may be served with cold appetizers. Our red wine is Jesse’s Red. This is a bold, head turning wine with cabernet notes, a hint of black cherry and cocoa, balanced with oak and acidity. Jesse’s Red finishes with rich and robust flavors. This wine is great served at your favorite barbeque or drink while hanging out with friends and family.

As President Washington said, “I cannot tell a lie,” and so we cannot either. These wines are made for Halliday Wines by the Debevc Family from the Grand River Valley, Ohio.

References:

www.ohiowines.org, www.hallidayswinery.com

Pools of Darkness

Pools of Darkness

As I wade in the endless darkness,

Tears fill pools that are heartless.

It is the depth I flee

Screams of loneliness surround me.

With closed eyes my world is free;

Filled with birds and trees, peace and harmony.

Why can’t this scene be real to me?

A place that’s calm with tranquility.

At night I drown in sorrow,

My heart is calloused, I fear tomorrow.

Reaching for a hand to save me,

The darkness grows I can’t see.

Soon they say there will come a light.

A time when everything is back to right.

How long do I wait in this pool of tears?

It could be too long my heart fears.

Hope is waiting, it’s within my grasp.

Pleas are useless, my heart cracks.

I plunge into the pools to find my way.

The light is there it needs to stay.

I reach for it and pray…

But when I open my eyes I realize,

The dream I’m in has black skies.

Deeper into the pools my heart drifts,

Until only the darkness exists.

By Bryan Bennington

Remember America

Do you remember when family meant something? When Christmas was celebrated for Christ! I remember when kids could play in the streets without parental supervision, (at least until the street lights came on). There was an era before computer games and the commercial hype of the holidays. When I was a kid, our family would always eat dinner together at the table. I especially think about the time when doing your job did not mean just going to work. There was a time when the American dream was just to get here. Does this mentality still exist? When you look at your life now, do you fall into all the hypocrisy of today? Here is the big question; do we take enough time out to actually see America and all its beauty?

What do us, as Americans need to do to get back there? We need to live our lives for a purpose not just to get something done. We need to celebrate the family because it brings neighborhoods together. We need to redevelop pride in our work so we can feel like true Americans. We need to teach our children that playing sports is exactly that, playing. We need to celebrate what we have, not look past it all and wish for more. Is this even possible? Ask yourself that question. Is it too late? What would your dad say about how you celebrate life? What would your Grandparents think about how you have raised your children?

I know many of you may think, “I do not fall into these categories.” If you are like me, you may find yourself with eyes wide open and realize that you are trapped in an inescapable life style. Then again you may be one of those people that read this and think, “I did not sign up for this. What does this have to do with wine?” Well, every month I have to write a newsletter about wine. I have to tell you sometimes it is hard. Creativity is a gift. If we all received the same gift every day, we would probably get sick of it.

Therefore, I am choosing to use my gift of writing to ask each of you, who are you as a person? Whether you have religious beliefs or not, you still have a mind and your sense of vision. I say we all need to improve ourselves in one way or another. Each day we should do one thing that will get us back to that place. What if on Mondays we said, “Hi” to someone we do not know. Starting this week, reserve Tuesdays for family dinner night. Wednesdays you should go around and complement anyone for doing a good job. Maybe Thursday we say a prayer for those less fortunate than us. On Friday go watch your kids play ball or a local team if you do not have kids and let them know you appreciate them trying even if they did not win. Saturday, take your loved one out on a date and do something they want to do. Sunday, it is the last day, what can we do to make the past week count? How about planning the next week? Yeah, we cannot stop there; keep going until it all becomes viral. Can you imagine if we all did something different six days a week, week after week, to rejuvenate the spirit of life? How will it make you feel to know you have touched another person? Would people notice and follow your lead? All I can do is try. I know this I can do better!

As for the wine, I think I am ready now. I am intellectually open to discuss other people’s accomplishments.

This month I am taking your palates to Argentina. The wines I have chosen are from Bodega Poesia. This winery is located in the town of Lujan de Cuyo, in the district of Mendoza. It is here where a husband and wife, Patrice Lévêque and Hélène Garcin-Lévêque, have joined their knowledge of wine and produced a finished product unique to this terrior.

As prestigious owners of famed Chateau’s like Clos L’Eglise, Chateau Barde-Haut, and Chateau Haut Bergey, they have come to Argentina to produce the finest wines. Their 13-acre estate is located in the heart of Lujan de Cuyo, which is considered the finest region for Malbec in Argentina. Our Poesia Malbec comes from vines planted in 1974. The vineyard and wine are treated with the same meticulous care that is applied in France to their Grands Crus. The vine cultivation is 100% natural, no herbicides or pesticides are used and all work is done by hand. The grapes are hand-harvested, and all the equipment used in the winemaking process is imported from France in order to guarantee that the 20,000 bottles of Poesia are produced with the same high quality tools, that they use in France.

Small, traditional, wooden vats, which are imported, are used in the winery, that resembles Clos L’Eglise in Pomerol more than a typical Argentinean Bodega. Malolactic fermentation takes place in new French oak barrels and the wine is aged for 18 to 20 months. Poesia Malbec is blended with 40% old vine Cabernet Sauvignon, which comes from the same vineyard. Its aromas and flavors are unique. Our wine is deep garnet in color with a tinge of purple. The nose exudes appealing notes of warm blackberries, cassis, mocha and spice. The palate shows great balance and structure. Ripe, berry fruit fills the mouth balanced by nice acidity and velvety tannins. The Lévêques recommend slightly chilling this red, before consuming, to enhance this passionate style of wine. This wine’s unique character pushes the flavor index to an extreme for food pairing. We recommend grilled beefy meats like Flank steak or a Tri-tip roast. Smoked meats and grilled vegetables will also pair well with this wine.

Our white wine, also from Bodega Poesia, is a Torrontes. This white grape variety is becoming popular in Argentina and I feel it is way under the radar as far as a quality grape varietal goes. Another outstanding effort from Hélène and Patrice, this Torrontes comes from vines with an average age of 25 years. The wine has a beautiful nose of tropical fruit and spice. On the palate, we pick up rich lemon, pear and a hint of pineapple. This wine is perfect as an aperitif or you may serve it with light seafood, chicken or veal.

I had a Dream...

I had a Dream…

That someday all wines would be judged equally…

That all wines would be graded upon their quality instead of their label or cost…

That each wine would be tasted with enthusiasm and an open mind…

I had a Dream…

We could all gather and appreciate the natural healing power that the grape brings to all of us…

That food and wine would pair perfectly without overpowering each other…

I had a Dream that everyone would like both red and white wines evenly…

Without prejudice or discrimination.

As spring unveils itself and brings forth life. We too should open our minds to all the preconceptions of wine and start a new appreciation for the world of Oenology. My goal this year is to gain a respect for white and red wines alike. I hope all of us will learn and grow our respect for the farmer, vintner, and wine itself. This can only be done by directly comparing what a grape has to offer, no matter where it is grown or who makes the finished product. We will grow to understand each terroir and appreciate each wine for where it comes from.

This month we are comparing a Chardonnay from the Burgundy region of France and a Chardonnay from the Colchagua Valley in Chile. Both Chardonnays are of equal quality but different in so many ways. They come from two different sides of the equator. One vineyard will be experiencing summer while the other is chilled with the blanket of winter. What they do have in common is enthusiastic men and women who want nothing more than to make a perfect wine with the tools they have been handed.

First, we will look at the Burgundian Chardonnay. France is without a doubt the most difficult wine region in the world to understand. Therefore, I will try to explain it simply without too much detail. In France, nearly all wines are labeled with their origin instead of the grape variety. The basic wine areas in France are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire Valley, Rhone, Provence, Champagne, Alsace and a couple more with which we will not bother. Burgundy, which is where our wine is from, is broken down into three basic regions: Chablis, Côte d’Or, Mâconnais. Within each region is an intricate map of sub-region, then Villages, and vineyards, all of which are shared by many more farmers than there are vintners. Our wine is from the village of Saint Véran located in the Mâconnais. The nearest village of great distinction is that of Pouilly-Fuissé. All white wine made within the Mâconnais is 100% Chardonnay and with good reason. The characteristics held by the terroir here are a perfect match for the queen of grape varieties. Limestone subsoil, layered with clay and gravel, along with a warm climate suit the Chardonnay grape. What determines the distinction between one Village’s wines to the next are the undulating differences in the soil. Saint-Véran is distinct due to its red chalky soil and the gravel turning into sand, which brings an acidity and minerality to the wine that, is not found in some of the neighboring villages. The southeast facing vineyards, which rise a mere 300-500 feet, appreciate the sunshine that caresses its fruit. This wine sees no oak during the winemaking process. Our wine is fruity with aromas and flavors of white peach, pear, granny smith apple, a flinty minerality and a bit of honeyed-petrol. Food pairings for our Saint-Véran are monkfish, lightly seasoned chicken with a cream sauce, prawns and goat cheese.

Now, we will jump 8400 nautical miles over the Atlantic Ocean, the Equator, and the whole continent of South America to the vineyards of Chile. The most dynamic thing about Chilean wine country is the fact it is the only region in the world that has never been invaded by the destructive aphid Phylloxera. This is due to the sandy Atacama Desert to the north, the Andes Mountains to the east, the Pacific Ocean to the west and Antarctica to the south. The climate is generally Mediterranean with day after day of warm sunshine, little rainfall and an unpolluted atmosphere. The soils here are different from those of Burgundy. Chile has fine textured clay, loam silt, and granite derived from volcanic slopes.

The low humidity, maritime influence and the cooling breeze from the Andes Mountain range generate an ideal condition for grape growing. Temperatures fluctuate as much as 40°F from mid-day to mid-night in the Colchagua Valley, giving the grapes additional hang time and a long molecular chain responsible for the aromas and taste of the fruit. It is here where the vineyards range from 1500-3000 feet in altitude. MontGras is at the top of their class when it comes to environmental responsibility; they know the unique geographical situation they are a part of and they take their farming and winemaking technique seriously, while maintaining the natural surroundings. All these dynamics, combined with skillful winemaking make our MontGras Chardonnay unique. This white wine is aged for six months, 40% in oak and the remainder in stainless steel. Tropical fruit aromas, and flavors of apricots and honey combined with vanilla, peach and pear flavors, invite foods such as Hawaiian pork kabobs, grilled jerk chicken, and Alaskan Salmon with mango chutney.

Enjoy!

East versus West

This is the year of wine wars! One of my goals this year is to do wine comparisons, so we can determine the actual difference terroir makes in the chemistry of a wine. The French define all the elements that can change the flavor profile of a grape as terroir. These elements include soil composition, precipitation, latitude, sun exposure, degree of angle of which the vines are planted and elevation.

This month we are comparing a Barbera from Italy’s Lombardy region, which is the northern most wine region of Italy, and a Barbera from Mendocino County in California, which is located just north of Sonoma Valley. The wineries we choose are Cantina di Casteggio from Italy and Fattoria Enotria from California. We chose these wines based on their geographical location and the quality of the wine, not specifically because of the winery.

Terroir is an interesting thing when discussed in the wine industry. Many winemakers will state that their ultimate goal is “to make top quality wines that express the true terroir of the vineyard.” Well, if every winemaker makes this statement what makes one wine better than the next? My answer is sustainability. In order for true terroir to be expressed, the most important thing a winemaker can do is make sure the vineyards are cared for without the influence of humans. This means doing without man made herbicides and pesticides to control the outcome of the crop. If terroir is nature nurturing the vine, than a wine made to define it should not be influenced by man!

Mendocino County (AVA), American Viticulture Area, is the northernmost wine-growing region of California. The landscape is a breathtaking span of rolling hillsides, monstrously tall trees and rugged coastline.  There are more organic vineyards located here than any other AVA in the country. Most of the vineyards are scattered across the foothills and the tree-blanketed mountains. The Barbera grapes grown here benefit from the shallow rocky soil, good drainage and sunny southern exposure. The trees and mountains shield the vines from strong winds and the average precipitation from bud break to harvest is 6 inches. The mean temperature year round only fluctuates about 10 degrees, with the average temperatures of 60°F during the day and 50°F during the evening. Compare this to the temperature fluctuation in Monterey, which can go from 102°F down to 50°F from one side of the valley to the other (yes that is at the same time of day). The last terroir factor for our Enotria is the latitude of around 40° that puts the vineyards on the same plain as Ohio, Portugal, Spain and Southern Italy. A huge contributing factor to this wine is the fact that is was aged for 24 months in French and American oak. This process brings soft tannins and a hint of smoke and oak to the bouquet of this wine. The resulting characteristics of this wine are a dark purplish-garnet hue with flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, plum, and toasty oak, the tannins are soft and the acidity is slightly racy. Recommended food pairings for this wine are pasta with ragu sauce (not the brand Ragu), grilled lamb chops or grilled Gorgonzola cheeseburgers.

Our second wine from Casteggio is located on the 45^th latitude. That puts our Barbera in the company of Champagne France, the Ice wines of Canada and the elegant wines of Oregon and Washington. Lombardy is situated between the DOC (denominazione di Origine Controllata) of Piedmonte and Romagna in Northern Italy, Viticulture has been traced back 3000 years in this region. The vineyards sit on the foothills of the Apennines Mountains and the Po River just to the south. The vines in Oltrepo benefit from well-drained soil rich in clay, which supplies plenty of acidity to the ripe fruit at harvest. Pinot Noir is also grown abundantly here because of the terroir. Remember these vineyards are on the same playing field as Burgundy and Oregon the two most highly rated Pinot regions in the world. Rainfall in the Po River valley averages 21 inches from April through September, much more precipitation during the growing season compared to Mendocino County. The Po valley also contains morainic gravel left behind by Glaciers thousands of years ago. As for the temperatures in Lombardy, they are significantly higher than those in northern California are, with summer time highs in the upper 80s and nighttime temperatures dipping down into the 60s. I can tell you this; the Italian Barbera definitely has a distinctive nose and flavor profile that I associate with Italy. If you have ever been there you know what I mean. This wine never saw an oak barrel, it is 100% stainless steel aged. The wine shows a delicate ruby color. Aromas of ripe cherry and bramble berry turn into flavors of dark fruit and spice with a slight minerality component. I need to mention that Casteggio is a co-op of 50 growers and together they made a great wine. Food pairings for this wine are ham and salami, as well as barbecued meats and vegetables.

I went back and forth with these two terrific wines and I love both of them. However, I would decide which one to serve according to the meal prepared.

Overall, I think the California Barbera is richer in flavor than the Italian version, even though it is grown in a cooler climate. However, I feel the Italian Barbera is more elegant and food friendly.