I had a Dream…
That someday
all wines would be judged equally…
That all
wines would be graded upon their quality instead of their label or cost…
That each
wine would be tasted with enthusiasm and an open mind…
I had a
Dream…
We could
all gather and appreciate the natural healing power that the grape brings to
all of us…
That food
and wine would pair perfectly without overpowering each other…
I had a
Dream that everyone would like both red and white wines evenly…
Without
prejudice or discrimination.
As
spring unveils itself and brings forth life. We too should open our minds to
all the preconceptions of wine and start a new appreciation for the world of
Oenology. My goal this year is to gain a respect for white and red wines alike.
I hope all of us will learn and grow our respect for the farmer, vintner, and
wine itself. This can only be done by directly comparing what a grape has to
offer, no matter where it is grown or who makes the finished product. We will
grow to understand each terroir and appreciate each wine for where it comes
from.
This
month we are comparing a Chardonnay from the Burgundy region of France and a
Chardonnay from the Colchagua Valley in Chile. Both Chardonnays are of equal
quality but different in so many ways. They come from two different sides of
the equator. One vineyard will be experiencing summer while the other is
chilled with the blanket of winter. What they do have in common is enthusiastic
men and women who want nothing more than to make a perfect wine with the tools
they have been handed.
First,
we will look at the Burgundian Chardonnay. France is without a doubt the most
difficult wine region in the world to understand. Therefore, I will try to
explain it simply without too much detail. In France, nearly all wines are
labeled with their origin instead of the grape variety. The basic wine areas in
France are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire Valley, Rhone, Provence, Champagne, Alsace
and a couple more with which we will not bother. Burgundy, which is where our
wine is from, is broken down into three basic regions: Chablis, Côte
d’Or, Mâconnais.
Within each region is an intricate map of sub-region, then Villages, and
vineyards, all of which are shared by many more farmers than there are
vintners. Our wine is from the village of Saint Véran
located in the Mâconnais. The
nearest village of great distinction is that of Pouilly-Fuissé.
All white wine made within the Mâconnais is 100% Chardonnay and with good
reason. The characteristics held by the terroir here are a perfect match for
the queen of grape varieties. Limestone subsoil, layered with clay and gravel,
along with a warm climate suit the Chardonnay grape. What determines the
distinction between one Village’s wines to the next are the undulating
differences in the soil. Saint-Véran
is distinct due to its red chalky soil and the gravel turning into sand, which
brings an acidity and minerality to the wine that, is not found in some of the
neighboring villages. The southeast facing vineyards, which rise a mere 300-500
feet, appreciate the sunshine that caresses its fruit. This wine sees no oak
during the winemaking process. Our wine is fruity with aromas and flavors of white
peach, pear, granny smith apple, a flinty minerality and a bit of honeyed-petrol.
Food pairings for our Saint-Véran are
monkfish, lightly seasoned chicken with a cream sauce, prawns and goat cheese.
Now,
we will jump 8400 nautical miles over the Atlantic Ocean, the Equator, and the
whole continent of South America to the vineyards of Chile. The most dynamic
thing about Chilean wine country is the fact it is the only region in the world
that has never been invaded by the destructive aphid Phylloxera. This is due to
the sandy Atacama Desert to the north, the Andes Mountains to the east, the
Pacific Ocean to the west and Antarctica to the south. The climate is generally
Mediterranean with day after day of warm sunshine, little rainfall and an
unpolluted atmosphere. The soils here are different from those of Burgundy.
Chile has fine textured clay, loam silt, and granite derived from volcanic
slopes.
The
low humidity, maritime influence and the cooling breeze from the Andes Mountain
range generate an ideal condition for grape growing. Temperatures fluctuate as
much as 40°F from mid-day to
mid-night in the Colchagua Valley, giving the grapes additional hang time and a
long molecular chain responsible for the aromas and taste of the fruit. It is
here where the vineyards range from 1500-3000 feet in altitude. MontGras is at
the top of their class when it comes to environmental responsibility; they know
the unique geographical situation they are a part of and they take their
farming and winemaking technique seriously, while maintaining the natural
surroundings. All these dynamics, combined with skillful winemaking make our
MontGras Chardonnay unique. This white wine is aged for six months, 40% in oak
and the remainder in stainless steel. Tropical fruit aromas, and flavors of
apricots and honey combined with vanilla, peach and pear flavors, invite foods
such as Hawaiian pork kabobs, grilled jerk chicken, and Alaskan Salmon with
mango chutney.
Enjoy!
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